Apparently there are a two main names for this kind of padded roll: bourrelet and roundlet. It doesn't matter much whether this roll has a piece of fabric covering the crown of the head or not.
What we see in the VM Gemini man is a specific moment in the evolution of the garment. In the beginning of the 15th century people were tired of draping their hood+cape over their heads each time to look fashionable, so the headgear was redesigned into a padded roll for ease of use. The sleeve and rooster comb were then sewn to this roll. What we are looking for (for Gemini) is the period where it was fashionable to wear the bourrelet/roundlet without these attachments.
Some preliminary reading I've done suggests that the surge in popularity of this particular style will coincide nicely with the VM carbon daterange. Most clear cut examples are about 1400-1440. But more work needs to be done on this.
What we see in the VM Gemini man is a specific moment in the evolution of the garment. In the beginning of the 15th century people were tired of draping their hood+cape over their heads each time to look fashionable, so the headgear was redesigned into a padded roll for ease of use. The sleeve and rooster comb were then sewn to this roll. What we are looking for (for Gemini) is the period where it was fashionable to wear the bourrelet/roundlet without these attachments.
Some preliminary reading I've done suggests that the surge in popularity of this particular style will coincide nicely with the VM carbon daterange. Most clear cut examples are about 1400-1440. But more work needs to be done on this.

