The "sleeves" are more correctly called "houppelandes" and are this is an over-garment on top of the dress and chemise itself. The chemise, and often the dress, is usually tightly fitted throughout all of this period, in stark contrast to the houppelandes.
The large open sleeves of the houppelandes popular in the early part of this century are in the bombard style.
The fashion of this period has been amply studied through the perspective of history of art.
1430 is interesting, because this is when we start to see a sudden change in female representation - the fashion is for a protruding belly, accenting their reproductive power and feminity. This suddenly comes on. Houppelands start to fall out of fashion for a while, except in more formal occasions. See, ie,
Detail of Two Women in Floral Border, Hours of Margaret of Orléans, ca. 1430. Manuscript. Paris: Bibliothèque Nationale, Latin 1156B, folio 172r. Source: You are not allowed to view links.
Register or
Login to view.
The women, none of whom wear houppelands, are displaying bellies but this is understood to simply mean they are attractive women, not that they are pregnant.
Houppelandes, which are mainly fashion garments, start to undergo strongly marked changes throughout this decade, starting always in Italy and sweeping north. They are very visible in paintings, as they are fashion garments. See, ie, You are not allowed to view links.
Register or
Login to view. by Van Eyke. The various fashions come with different and very stylistic hairpieces and hairstyles.
By the middle of this decade Antonio "Pisanello" had become firmly entrenched among the Italian nobility and was a major fashion designer. His designs were sought after and would quickly sweep across the continent. He was responsible for bringing the houppeland away from the designs fashionable then and bringing them back towards a fashion based upon Roman or classical designs. He is believed to be responsible for the move away from huge sleeves towards classical lines, including fluting based on classical architecture.
Anyone interested in the fashion of the period should study his drawings, which again are flowing and very expressive in the distinctive fashion of the time.